Cooper Murray x SKANT
At the Paris end of Collins st, you duck into an aptly modernist, grey and ghostly commercial building, Coates. The ride to level 4 is liminal, but at the end of that hall, you arrive at SKANT. In the walls of flayed white t-shirts is warmth and buzz underneath the score of a child’s playroom. In the centre of the room, a pseudo folding screen has been made with two sheets, accompanied by a rack of hanging accessories. It's a different world you’re in now, like the inside of a closet.
“SKANT is an independent runway exploring the intersection of fashion and art. This year's theme, ‘obsecure,’ examines contemporary influences on personal style - embracing raw self-exression and playful experimentation, like dressing up in someone else’s wardrobe.”
The show begins, the soundtrack is of Maple Syrup Factory’s* (Hiroshi Yoshimura)* light chimes - playful, whimsical.
Then comes Cooper, looking like a football jock on his way to prom in the most sleazy way possible.
It’s SKANT’s second year. The production, performance, styling, and audience has grown rapidly. It’s also Cooper’s second year with SKANT.
Ghani Arsiono is the head of the show, and he’s scouted and casted
the models personally:
JJ: How did you meet Cooper?
Ghani: I met Cooper on Hinge, haha. Last year. The story is, I downloaded Hinge to scout for a runway. I didn’t know any male models, and I’m especially scared of straight guys, so I wanted to talk to gay guys. I saw him in a Briar Will campaign and recognised him. I asked him to join a runway show and he agreed. He’s a gentle soul; kind, very fun to work with.
JJ: What’s your approach with styling Cooper for SKANT this year?
Ghani: I feel like since Cooper has such a youthful and kind spirited image, for this show I wanted to do a… masc, whimsical look to see how he navigates that persona. I feel like one of the goals of what I'm doing is also for the subject to explore and come across a new way of seeing themselves. A new personality in them. A new “me”... Maybe not a new “me” but different versions of who they are.
--
It was definitely a different Cooper on that runway. During the day, between hair and fittings, he’s quite giggly with a shy demeanor.. When I sit him down on the art-deco checkered floor of Blueball Room, he becomes quite aware of himself in front of the camera. He shakes his leg or taps his foot out of awkwardness, but tries to be himself.
**JJ: **How does it feel to come back to SKANT, being with Ghani and
the whole team again?
Cooper: It's good, I love the energy, it's nice. I love being surrounded
by projects that are young creatives who’ve got a vision and… you
know hahaha, they’ve got a vibe!
JJ: Later, we’re going to be practicing the performance, it's going to
be really really character based, interactive, fun; how do you approach
being a character model?
Cooper: I like to just lean into it and take the opportunity to, you
know, be somebody different and take on the persona.
JJ: Is there any headspace or something like that? Or does it just come
easily, like there's some part of you?
Cooper: I feel like if I overthink it then it sort of doesn’t come across the way I want it to. I feel like if I'm relaxed and the energy’s nice then it sort of just comes naturally and I find that the creative direction sort of sets the tone, and the styling helps me get in the headspace. It's a bit of fun.
JJ: So I know at Mother Agency they have an idea of the models’ look, they’re a bit holistic and future thinking and they kind of encourage that in their models as well. In a way you’re part of something else. Does that inform the way you work?
Cooper: I love the way Mother nurtures you to be you, like empowers
you to… sort of… take the charge and be the person you want to be in
the way that you present yourself. I think… hahaha
JJ: Being here at SKANT, with the production process and styling
team, is it different to other projects you do?
Cooper: I really love the playfulness and the experimentation that SKANT has done. There's so many people here,
they have such a cool vision for how they see things.
JJ: This year’s theme is obsecure, but at the core of SKANT is - Ghani says - second hand shopping, small brands, personal style. So I just wanna ask you, second hand shopping - your favourite spots?
Cooper: Oh my goodness… I used to live out, like way out east out in the Dandenong Ranges and all my favourite spots were like, the church op shops. The ones that are tacked onto the side of the chapel, cause they just have the cutest stuff; no one scalping all the good stuff out there. So I was there to dig through it, and it was so much fun. Now I live a little more inner, and so I can't find as much good stuff. So I kind of miss those days where I was like, living way out in Woop Woop and had free reign haha.
JJ: I mean, cause obviously if you go to Brunswick Savers now - so bad. But recently I’ve started going to Footscray Savers, and it's still untouched. Like I'm there and I can get whatever I want.
Cooper: That's what I feel, cause I live the closest to Ringwood Savers, and it’s just… not what it used to be, y’know? I miss that. I haven’t found second-hand pieces that I really loved in ages. But I’m really into physical
media at the moment. I’m buying CDs and DVDs, I love picking out my favourites and just owning that.
**JJ: **Can you tell me a bit about your personal style?
Cooper: Oh this ol’ thang? Hahaha, I love Uniqlo for basics - this is an airism long sleeve, and I think these are actually Cotton On jeans - don’t tell anybody.
Upon meeting him, you wouldn’t believe this sweet kid has graced campaigns and runways with ease. Then he does. Cooper, the jock, lumbers in front of the lit sheets with arrogance. His guard is up as he studies the crowd, he gives a smize or a flex of his muscles for those he deems worthy. During the second lap, his presence is quite stoic and
heavy when he walks beside Faye, who’s more sassy and refined, dressed in garb I can only describe as English the way Vivienne Westwood was English.
His expression exudes so much character, for the few minutes he’s on the runway, he looks nothing like the giggly
young boy I talked to that morning. As Ghani anticipated, it’s someone else now.
JJ: Describe your character in 1 word.
Cooper: Sportyyyy. He was cocky, he was confident. He doesn't think anything that’s not worth his time is worth his time, haha.
JJ: How do you feel about the SKANT community - two years in a row - everyone’s seen your second performance y’know?
Cooper: I love it, they’re so cute. It’s such a fun environment to be around and I love the vision, and everyone that's here to make it possible is just so lovely… I hope that I'll be back for year 3!
